With The Waves

“Might be a surf trip on Friday, 6am departure” was the message Alex sent to me. I’d been wanting to head on a trip with him for a while but either the weather wasn’t on or I was away. Now, I get to head along and document their early morning search for waves. I’ve always enjoyed watching and shooting surfing but after being in waves a few times, I definitely have a healthy fear of it and have a huge amount of respect for surfers.

After being satisfied with the waves, Alex and Sunny braved the wind and cool air to change into wetsuits. They then ran along a muddy path to the rocky shoreline for one last look at what they were about to submerge themselves into.

I’d been told the best places to shoot from and navigated my way around the slip n slide shoreline. Watching them paddle out and take on the water was impressive and as always, I was amazed as they cut through the water. Although this doesn’t always end well and they would be flung off the top like a rag doll.

The morning session was quite calm and bright but after lunch and a refuel they were back out into the waves. This time the clouds were grey, spitting and the water was looking choppy. Once again, they watched from the shoreline before heading straight into what would terrify me.

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Johny CookComment